Ball pythons are the most popular pet snake in the world, and for good reason. They're calm, manageable in size, come in hundreds of stunning colour morphs, and with proper care can live 30+ years. This guide covers everything you need to set up and maintain a happy, healthy ball python.
Enclosure Size
Adult ball pythons (typically 1.2–1.5m) need a minimum 120x60x60cm enclosure. Bigger is better; the idea that ball pythons need small enclosures to feel secure is a myth. What they need is adequate hides, not a small space. Front-opening terrariums are strongly recommended; approaching from above mimics a predator and causes stress.
Temperature and Heating
- Warm side (under hide): 30–32°C
- Cool side: 24–26°C
- Night time: no lower than 22°C
Use an under-tank heat mat or radiant heat panel on the warm side, always connected to a thermostat; this is absolutely non-negotiable. Uncontrolled heat mats regularly reach temperatures that cause severe burns.
💡 Deep heat projectors (DHPs) are strongly recommended for ball pythons as they provide infrared heat that penetrates deeper into the body.
Humidity
Ball pythons require 60–80% relative humidity, critical for successful shedding and respiratory health. Below 50% causes stuck sheds and respiratory infections. Maintain humidity with moisture-retaining substrate, a moist hide, partially covering the screen lid, and light misting if needed.
Substrate
- Coconut coir/fibre: excellent moisture retention, easy to spot clean
- Cypress mulch: natural look, retains humidity, resists mould
- Bioactive mix: for keepers wanting a self-sustaining setup
- Avoid: cedar and pine shavings (toxic)
Depth should be 7–10cm minimum; ball pythons like to burrow slightly.
Hides
Provide at minimum two hides: one on the warm side, one on the cool side. Both should be snug enough that the snake feels its sides touching the walls. An insecure hide causes chronic stress, which suppresses the immune system and leads to feeding refusal.
Feeding
Ball pythons eat frozen/thawed pre-killed prey, never live prey, which can injure your snake. Feed appropriately sized prey: roughly the same diameter as the snake's widest body point. Hatchlings: pinky or fuzzy mice every 5–7 days. Juveniles: hopper mice or small rats every 7–10 days. Adults: medium or large rats every 10–14 days. Always feed with tongs, never by hand.
Feeding Refusal: Don't Panic
Ball pythons are notorious for going off food. A healthy adult can refuse food for 3–6 months without health consequences. Common causes: shedding cycle, breeding season (October–January), incorrect temperatures or humidity, stress from handling, or a prey-type switch (try rats if refusing mice).
Handling
Wait 2 weeks after acquiring a new ball python before handling. Wait 48–72 hours after feeding before handling; handling too soon can cause regurgitation. Start with 10-minute sessions 2–3 times per week. A defensive ball python will ball up rather than strike.
Shedding
Signs a shed is coming: eyes turn blue/grey, skin becomes dull. Increase misting slightly during this period and do not handle during the opaque phase. A healthy shed comes off in one complete piece. Retained shed should be soaked in warm water for 20 minutes and gently removed, never pulled.
Find thermostats, heat mats, deep heat projectors, hides, and feeding tongs in our Reptile range.
