Bearded dragons are one of the best reptiles for beginners. They're sociable, handleable, hardy, and fascinating to watch. But they have specific requirements, particularly around lighting and temperature, that are non-negotiable for their health. Get those right and you'll have a companion that can live 10–15 years.
Enclosure Size
A juvenile bearded dragon (under 6 months) can start in a 60x45x45cm enclosure. Adults need a minimum of 120x60x60cm, and bigger is always better. Glass terrariums with front-opening doors are ideal as they make handling easier and maintain better temperature gradients.
Important: Never house two bearded dragons together, even females. They are solitary in the wild and will stress each other out.
Lighting: the Most Critical Factor
Bearded dragons are diurnal desert animals. In the wild, they bask for hours in intense sunlight and receive high levels of UVB radiation. In captivity, you must replicate this or they will develop metabolic bone disease (MBD), a painful and often fatal condition caused by calcium deficiency.
UVB lighting
You need a UVB tube rated at minimum 10.0 (T5 HO 10%). Position the bulb 25–30cm above the basking spot. Replace UVB bulbs every 6 months even if they're still producing visible light, because the UVB output degrades before the bulb burns out.
Basking light
A separate basking spot bulb must create a hot spot of 40–45°C directly underneath. The cool end of the enclosure should sit at 25–28°C. This temperature gradient allows your beardie to thermoregulate.
Photoperiod
14 hours of light in summer, 10–11 hours in winter. Use a timer. Turn all lights off at night. Do NOT use red or blue nighttime bulbs, as bearded dragons can see these wavelengths and it disrupts their sleep.
Substrate
Juveniles under 6 months: use reptile carpet, paper towels, or slate tiles. Loose substrate carries a risk of impaction in small dragons.
Adults: dry topsoil mixed with play sand (60/40) is ideal and allows natural digging behaviour. Avoid calci-sand and walnut shell, as both carry high impaction risk.
Feeding Schedule and Diet
Juveniles (0–6 months)
80% live insects, 20% vegetables. Feed 3 times daily. Offer as many appropriately sized crickets or dubia roaches as they can eat in 10 minutes. Insects should be no wider than the space between the dragon's eyes.
Subadults (6–12 months)
50/50 insects and vegetables. Feed once or twice daily.
Adults (12+ months)
30% insects, 70% vegetables. Feed insects 3–4 times per week. Staple vegetables: collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, butternut squash, bell peppers. Avoid spinach, avocado, and citrus.
Supplements
- Calcium without D3: dust insects at every feeding
- Calcium with D3: dust insects twice per week
- Multivitamin: dust insects once per week
💡 Dubia roaches are nutritionally superior to crickets, don't smell, can't escape easily, and can't bite your dragon. Worth switching to if you can source them.
Water and Hydration
Bearded dragons rarely drink from a bowl; they hydrate primarily through food and bathing. Bathe your dragon in shallow warm water (belly-deep) for 15 minutes, 2–3 times per week. This also helps with shedding.
Common Health Issues
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Symptoms: twitching, tremors, soft jaw, wobbly limbs. Cause: insufficient UVB or calcium. This is an emergency; see a vet immediately. Preventable with correct lighting and supplementation.
Impaction
Symptoms: lethargy, not defecating, bloated abdomen. Warm baths and gentle belly massages can help mild cases. Vet visit if no improvement within 24 hours.
Respiratory Infection
Symptoms: wheezing, mucus around nostrils, laboured breathing. Usually caused by temperatures being too low. Raise the basking spot and see a vet if symptoms persist.
Find UVB bulbs, thermostats, feeding tongs, supplements and terrariums for bearded dragons in our Reptile range.
