Freshwater shrimp are one of the most rewarding creatures you can keep in an aquarium. They're endlessly active, great at cleaning algae, and available in stunning colours, from cherry red to electric blue. But they're also more sensitive than fish, and a few key mistakes will wipe out an entire colony fast. This guide covers everything you need to keep shrimp thriving long-term.
Which Shrimp to Start With
For beginners, start with Neocaridina shrimp, specifically Red Cherry Shrimp (RCS). They're the most forgiving species, tolerate a wide range of water parameters, breed readily, and are inexpensive. Once you're comfortable, you can move on to Caridina shrimp (Crystal Red, Taiwan Bee, Blue Bolt) which are far more demanding but stunning.
Tank Size
A 20–30L tank is ideal for a shrimp colony. Smaller tanks have less stable water parameters. Larger tanks are fine but you'll need more shrimp to see them regularly. Shrimp-only tanks are recommended; many fish will eat shrimp, and even supposedly shrimp-safe species will pick off juveniles.
Water Parameters: the Most Critical Factor
Shrimp are extremely sensitive to water quality. Target these parameters for Neocaridina:
- Temperature: 20–26°C (lower end preferred for breeding)
- pH: 7.0–7.8
- GH (General Hardness): 6–8 dGH
- KH (Carbonate Hardness): 2–4 dKH
- TDS: 150–250 ppm
- Ammonia / Nitrite: 0 ppm always
- Nitrate: below 20 ppm
💡 Most tap water is suitable for Neocaridina shrimp. Test it first. If your GH is below 4, add a GH booster mineral supplement. If above 12, blend with RO water.
Cycling Your Shrimp Tank
Never add shrimp to an uncycled tank. Run a full nitrogen cycle (4–6 weeks) before adding any shrimp. Shrimp are even more sensitive to ammonia and nitrite than fish; even trace amounts will cause deaths. Once cycled, acclimate them over 1–2 hours using the drip method.
Substrate
For Neocaridina: plain gravel, sand, or inert substrate works fine. For Caridina: use active buffering substrate (like ADA Amazonia or Fluval Stratum) which lowers pH and KH to the required levels.
Filtration
Use a sponge filter exclusively or cover all filter intakes with fine sponge. Baby shrimp (shrimplets) are tiny, just 1–2mm, and will be sucked into any unguarded filter intake and killed. A sponge filter also provides surface area for biofilm, a primary food source for shrimp.
Plants
Plants are highly beneficial in shrimp tanks. They absorb nitrates, provide hiding spots, and grow biofilm. Best options: java moss, christmas moss, java fern, anubias, hornwort, and floating plants like frogbit or water lettuce. Dense moss provides ideal cover for breeding females and young shrimplets.
Feeding
Shrimp are scavengers and will eat algae, biofilm, and decaying plant matter. In a well-planted tank they often need very little supplemental feeding. When you do feed, offer small amounts every 1–2 days and remove uneaten food after 2–4 hours. Good staples: blanched vegetables, algae wafers, and shrimp-specific pellets.
Water Changes
Change 10–15% weekly using water that has been temperature-matched and dechlorinated. Never do large water changes; shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter shifts.
Common Problems
Shrimp dying suddenly: almost always water quality, so test immediately. Copper is lethal to shrimp even in trace amounts, so check any fertilisers or medications. Not breeding: lower temperature slightly (20–22°C), keep parameters stable, ensure enough biofilm. White ring of death: a white ring during moulting indicates a failed moult, often from insufficient minerals, so add a GH booster.
Find sponge filters, shrimp food, mineral supplements, and java moss in our Shrimp & Aquatics range.
