Leopard geckos are consistently one of the most recommended first reptiles, and for good reason. They're small, docile, easy to handle, don't require UVB lighting (though it's beneficial), and can live 15–20 years with proper care. This guide covers everything a new owner needs to know.
Enclosure Size
A single adult leopard gecko needs a minimum 60x45x30cm enclosure. Bigger is better, as more floor space is more important than height since leos are terrestrial. A 90x45x30cm enclosure allows more enrichment and makes temperature gradients easier to maintain. Juveniles can start in a 45x30cm enclosure.
Temperature and Heating
Leopard geckos thermoregulate by moving between warm and cool areas. You must provide both.
- Warm side (basking area): 30–32°C surface temperature
- Cool side: 22–25°C
- Night-time: no lower than 18°C
Achieve this with an under-tank heat mat connected to a thermostat; the thermostat is non-negotiable. Heat mats without thermostats can reach 50°C+ and cause serious burns. Set the thermostat probe on the warm side floor surface, not inside the substrate.
💡 A deep heat projector is superior to a heat mat for providing belly heat at a safer, more controllable level, and is strongly recommended if your budget allows.
Lighting
Unlike bearded dragons, leopard geckos are crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk) and do not require UVB lighting to survive. However, low-level UVB (2.0 or 5.0) is increasingly recommended as it improves calcium metabolism and overall health. Provide a natural 12-hour light/dark cycle to maintain their day/night rhythm.
Substrate
For juveniles and new keepers: reptile carpet, paper towels, or porcelain tiles are safest and eliminate impaction risk entirely. For experienced keepers with adults: a bioactive mix of 70% topsoil + 30% sand allows natural digging behaviour. Avoid pure sand for juveniles; impaction risk is real.
Hides: the Most Important Enrichment
Leopard geckos are secretive animals that need to feel secure. Provide a minimum of three hides:
- Warm hide: positioned over the heat mat, where they digest food
- Cool hide: on the cool side for resting
- Moist hide: filled with damp sphagnum moss or coconut fibre, essential for successful shedding
Hides should be just large enough for the gecko to fit inside snugly. If the hide is too large, they won't feel secure.
Feeding
Leopard geckos are insectivores. They do not eat vegetables or fruit. Juveniles (under 6 months): feed daily. Adults: feed every 2–3 days, 6–10 appropriately sized insects per feeding. Staple feeders: crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms (use sparingly). All insects must be gut-loaded and dusted with calcium and vitamins: calcium without D3 at every feeding, calcium with D3 every other feeding, and a multivitamin once per week.
Water
Provide a shallow water dish that the gecko can drink from without risk of drowning. Change daily. Leos rarely drink in front of you but they do hydrate, and a dry water dish means a dehydrated gecko.
Handling
Wait 2 weeks before handling a new gecko. Start with 5-minute sessions and gradually extend. Never grab from above; this triggers a prey response. Always approach from the side. Never grab by the tail; leopard geckos can drop their tails as a defence mechanism.
Shedding
Healthy leos shed their entire skin in one piece, usually overnight. Signs a shed is coming: skin turns dull and opaque, gecko may refuse food and hide more. Ensure the moist hide is damp during this period. If shed gets stuck around the toes or eyes, soak the gecko in shallow warm water for 15 minutes and gently roll off stuck skin, never pull.
Common Health Issues
Metabolic Bone Disease: trembling, soft jaw, inability to support own weight. Cause: insufficient calcium or D3. Cryptosporidiosis: chronic weight loss despite eating; vet visit required, quarantine new animals 90 days. Impaction: not defecating, bloated, lethargic; warm baths help, and a vet visit is needed if no improvement within 48 hours.
Find heat mats, thermostats, hides, feeding tongs, and calcium supplements in our Reptile range.
